I learned in a lecture during the Star Princess cruise to Hawaii, that surfing has been going on there since the year 300 A.D. They used to carve their own board, from a tree. Then, when the missionaries appeared, they banned surfing, hula dancing, playing the ukelele, and many other traditional customs from the islands.
The legend of the Aumakua: your ancestors come back to you through birds and other beings that identify themselves to you. Creatures in nature embody the spirit of our ancestors, they believe. As Pope Francis recently said: "Who am I to judge?"